A dog which is slow in barking can be encouraged to do so by your imitating a bark, as the chances are he will reply to it, and if you reward him he will learn to bark as soon as he hears the word “speak.”

After a dog has been taught to bark once, you can teach him to bark any number of times, for when he has learned to expect a reward after barking once and you do not give it to him he is apt to bark again or until you give him a signal to stop.

Dogs are very observing and the signal to stop barking can be so slight that your friends will not detect it, such as a movement of the foot or hand, a dropping of the eyelids or a shifting of your gaze, and if you keep up a running fire of conversation and address your dog as if he were a human being his performance will be much more impressive and perplexing.

As an illustration, if you are exhibiting your dog to an audience and want him to speak, don’t simply say “speak,” but address him something like this: “Now, Buddy, all the ladies and gentlemen present are very anxious to hear you speak.” Put a slight emphasis on the word “speak” and your dog will catch it, but it will appear to the audience as if the dog understood the entire sentence and not only the one word “speak.” Of course, when training the young dog you should use only the word “speak” and that distinctly and free from other words, so as not to confuse him.

If your dog knows how to speck on command, you can try to teach “singing” – which is to teach him to howl on command. It is not expected that your dog will produce any melody but only repeat in a mechanical way a series of whines and barks.

Teach him to “sing” in the following manner. Try to imitate a whine yourself and try to get him to imitate the noise you make and to a certain degree, reach the pitch and style of noise make by you, be it a howl, whine or bark and with constant practice, a dog can and will learn to follow your tone quite accurately.

As your dog learn to follow your barking, say “sing” instinctively to associate this action. Praise and treat plentifully during training to encourage him further. Exercise him on a regular basis will help him to learn to sing in no time on your command.

A crate may look like a jail cell, but when used properly is your dog’s natural den – a personal space where he’ll feels secure and comfortable. The best place to place a crate would be where your dog can see the environment and family members, hear and smell your house – the kitchen is usually a good spot.

An ideal crate should be large enough to allow your dog to stretch out, stand without hitting his head and be able to turn around. The crate should not be so large that your dog can relieve himself in one corner and play move away to play and sleep in another. If your puppy is still young and is not fully growth, try to block off certain section of the crate with cardboards or wood boards.

To encourage your dog to “like” his new den, you should preferably equip it with soft beddings, a bowl of water and a toy that he likes. (You might want to remove the water at night when you are potty training your dog)

You must introduce the crate slowly to your dog. Crate him in smaller interval, about 10 minutes, and gradually increase over time. Your dog need time to get used to being crate. Never crate him for more than 30 minutes or longer for the first time.

It is not advisable to crate a young puppy for long period of time – about 2 hour and pup should always be exercised before being crated.

It’s quite normal for dogs to kick up a fuss, bark and moan while in the crate. If these things happen, do not give your dog any attention! Yes! Do not even look in his direction.

Dogs are intelligent animals – Don’t let him know that he’ll get your attention when he kicks up a fuss. Simply ignore him! Let your dog out only when he settles down.

*if it’s a young puppy whom you’ve just introduce the crate to, maybe you can offer him a treat in the crate to calm him down. Whatever you do, don’t let him out of the crate at that very moment!*

The exception I can think of is if you think your dog has to relieve himself. Even so, bring it out only after he stops barking. Another exception is when your dog is chewing on himself. Let him out immediately and consult a trainer or behaviorist.

Lastly, dog should not be crate for too long day after day. He’ll develop destructive behaviors and anxiety problems. If you notice that your dog displays hyper active behavior compare to before, you might be crating him for too long!

Let me guide you through the maze of Dog training collars. Let us take a look at each of the available collars we can have for our dogs.

First, there is the buckle collar. The buckle collar is really like a buckle that we use for our trousers. Buckle collars have buckle fasteners too to secure it over the dog’s neck. The buckle collars for dogs come in different varieties. There are buckle collars that are flat, rolled, made in nylon, or made in leather. The most preferred buckle collars of owners are the ones made in nylon. They are easier to clean, don’t shrink and they come in different colors and styles. The leather ones, although it has been popular, is not very easy to clean and if wrongly washed they may shrivel or shrink.

Another Dog Training Collar especially used for flyball training and sled dog racing is the Martingale collars. Martingale collars provide “limited choke” on the dog’s neck. These collars are not so easy to come off as they really fit the neck of your dog in a very nice way. Martingale collars are so flexible and they eliminate the danger of choking even if the dog gets very excited.

Next is the, Limited Choke Collar. These collars are more like the choke chain but they have rings at the end to make room for a few inches of allowance. To use these collars, you just have to ease the dog training collar from the head of your dog and slip it down its neck and tighten it a little.

An outdated Dog training collar is the choke chain. This was formerly used by dog owners before the invention of the other types of collars. Mostly, choke chains were used for punishment and correction. When a dog misbehaves, the owner would just jerk on the leash and the dog would choke, letting him think twice of what he is doing. Before, choke chains were really made of chains but now they are mostly made of nylon. Choke chains really are a torture to dogs, in some cases when the jerking is very hard, it can damage the windpipe of the dog.

An innovation of the choke chain dog training collar is the Snap-around choke. This is like the choke chain but designed so as not to damage a dog’s windpipe. The snap-around choke is very snugly fit and it is worn up high the dog’s neck and when the leash is jerked, it does not damage the dog’s windpipe and does not jolt the dog that much.

Most of the collars we have discussed are worn around the dog’s neck. However, there are also dog training collars that are worn on the head. These collars are fit on the dog’s head with a leash attached under the dog’s muzzle. The principle of this is that, where the dog’s head is, its body will follow. The dog may not adjust that easily to wearing these kinds of dog collars and they may look like a pony halter or a muzzle.

Next is the Pronged or the German Pinch dog training collar. This collar is especially made for dogs that are wild, unruly and difficult to control. These collars apply pressure on the protruding areas in the dog’s neck therefore it effectively catches the dog’s attention. This kind of dog training collar does not damage the dog’s windpipe

Another dog training collar is the electronic collar. These collars set off radio waves that shock the dog. The consequence of using this kind of collar is that your dog will always leave on fear and negative anticipation of the next shock. Electronic collars should not be used by novice trainers as they may not know how to properly make use of this collar.
There is also this thing called the no-bark collars. These are generally not really collars but they are used to train dogs not to bark. It is oftentimes very damaging and not beneficial on the dog to use this kind of collar.

There are still so many dog training collars available. They are constantly evolving to make collars as comfortable and as dog-friendly as possible. Other dog training collars include: light-up collars, they light up or glow at night; ornamental collars; schutzhund training collars and many others.

In short, if you are serious about training your dog and demand Only success, You MUST apply these principles. No “If” No “But”. Get the basic right first before you start to train your dog!

Consistency
Consistency is very important during training and correcting unwanted behavior. Always use the same “command” for a specific task you require of your dog. Don’t confuse him by using different command for the same task.

Once you’ve establish some house rules such as – keeping the cooking area out of bound to your dog, enforce them constantly. If the dog learns that he can get away with it now and then, your previous efforts will go down the drain. Lastly, make sure everyone in the family accept and enforce your rules consistently.

Timing
Timing is critical to successful training. Praise your dog whenever he is doing something right. As expected, reprimand him on the spot and to the point whenever he misbehave or fails to response to your command. Praise and reprimand that happen later will have no effect on your dog.

* There are 2 main schools of thoughts concerning the timing of correction when your dog misbehaves. I called the first school of thoughts the “Direct Approach”. It simply requires you to reprimand your dog on the spot if he misbehaves. This is more of a tangible and straight forward approach to training your dog and is easy to understand for most trainers.

I called the second school of thoughts the “Endurance Approach” as it’ll require you to ignore your dog when he misbehaves. Using the cause and effect to your advantage, this approach requires you to ignore the dog, especially when he misbehaves to seek attention and encourage you to pay attention to your dog only when he’s a good boy.

Attention Factor (Endurance Approach)
Dogs love attention and are hugely motivated by it. Unlike man, dogs do not know how to differentiate between positive and negative attention. They see things in a simple way. If a certain action gets reaction and attention, you’ll bet they repeat it over and over again. (Cause and Effect)

Unfortunately, for most dog owners, we more often than not give our dogs negative attention. For example, “Do you let him out of his crate when he groans?” or “Do you give chase when he runs off with your socks?” These are negative attentions given to the dog and is certainly motivating his bad behavior.

Fortunately, the opposite is true if you pay enough attention to your dog when he behaves himself. When the dog understands that he’ll get attention only when he’s behaving, he’ll learn that only good behavior attract attention and he’ll repeat his good behavior always.

Focus your attention on your dog only when he is behaving; praise him or give him a treat, let him know that he’s getting the attention. If this technique is used correctly, he’ll be a well-behaved dog for a long time to come. Nevertheless, this approach is probably not for the short temper and requires you to go through an endurance ordeal. Imagine your dog chewing up your sock in your presence. “Endure Dude!”

Training Mood
You need to be in the correct frame of mind before you train your dog. Never train your dog when you are under the influence of alcohol or drug. Also try not to train him if you’ve a bad day or not in the best of your mood.

If you’ve just argued with your sweetie or got a telling off from your boss earlier on. You would most probably take out your frustration on him and threaten your relationship with him in future.

You should always use a positive approach to training your dog. Rewarding him with a treat and praise will go a lot further than hitting and yelling. Dogs and puppies want your approval and will try to please you to get your praise.

Once you have taught your dog the two basic commands of “sit” and “down”, you are ready to move on to the “stay” command. This command comes in handy when you are out somewhere and you don’t want your dog to get into something he shouldn’t or to keep him contained in a dangerous situation. The steps are basically the same as for any other training with the action and command being the differentiating factor. Here’s some steps you might use to train your dog to stay:

1. Get the puppy (or adult dog) to lay down or sit (You should already have them well trained in these commands before you can expect him to stay).

2. Give the “stay” command – some people put their hand up with the palm facing the dog in sort of a “Stop” command as well.

3. Give praise no matter how long he actually “stayed”. Of course, at first the dog won’t really stay at all, but you must give the praise anyway.

4. Release him by calling him to you and reward him with praise and a treat.

5. Praise the dog no matter how long he stays in position. At first he will only stay for a short time, but as he catches on you can lengthen that time period and eventually even leave the room and expect to find him as you left him.

6. Repeat the steps 5 times. No more than 5 times or it won’t be fun! You can try again later in the day.

Some owners unconsciously train their dogs to exhibit bad behaviors. Since dogs are social animals, they are interested in doing whatever gets them attention. Positive attention is best, but if negative attention is all they can get from you, they’ll try to obtain that. This is why yelling at a dog that has had an “accident” in the house doesn’t teach her to not do that. All your excitement reinforces her behavior. The best way to let a dog know you are displeased with her is to ignore her.

Positive reinforcement is the key to training your dog. Basically, this means rewarding desired behavior. A reward might be a food treat, lots of verbal praise in a high voice and/or a good pet or scratch in her favorite spot. Rewarding your dog’s behavior accomplishes two things: it makes her want to repeat the behavior to reap the reward and establishes you as her leader. Some dogs are more assertive than others, and will try to become dominant over you. It is important that you remain the “leader of the pack,” and obedience training helps with that. However, even, and perhaps especially, less assertive dogs benefit from training. Following a leader is instinctive in dogs. Training your dog allows her to employ that instinct to follow someone else, and makes her feel more secure.

There are many training approaches within the realm of positive reinforcement. Some behaviors will be captured-rewarded as they occur-while others can be shaped by gently coaxing the dog into the desired action. Most professional trainers recommend using both a verbal commands and hand signals to communicate with your dog. Besides words/signals for behaviors such as sit, stay, and come, you will need a “release” signal. This is a word or sound that tells your dog she’s done something correctly. The release signal is always immediately followed by a reward, so that the dog comes to associate it with something positive.

With so many of a dog’s happiest moments spent running, jumping, catching, and stretching, dog agility training can really help dogs age gracefully and happily.

What is dog agility training?

You’ve probably seen dog agility training on television. The dogs run a course of tire hoops, tunnels, seesaw, dog walk plank, jumps, hurdles, weaving poles, and a 3-meter A-frame. Heeling, sitting, down stays, send-aways as well as walking off leash are also included.

Who can participate?

Anyone with a dog can do agility training. There is not age limit for people or dogs. In fact, children and puppies are encouraged to take part. All breeds and sizes of dogs without a physical disability can benefit from agility training. Be sure to check with your vet before you begin agility training if you have any doubts about your canine’s fitness.

What equipment is needed?

You as the handler will need comfortable shoes and clothes that you can run in, because this is not exercise for the dog alone.

Your dog needs a leather or webbed buckle collar and a leather, nylon or rope lead of fairly long length. Do not use a chain lead; it could get caught in the jumps.

Agility Training Courses for Dogs

There are two sides of agility training for dogs. They are the obstacles and the control training. There are also tips for training your dog.

1. Obstacles. Although it seems high to many handlers, the A-frame is the best obstacle to begin training. The dog walk plank, low jump and the tunnel (dogs love this obstacle) are also excellent for training the novice dog.

2. Control training is important to keep your dog disciplined both on the agility course and off. Everybody knows that a dog must heel and sit. You must also teach your dog to know and obey different commands: to go left and right, lay down, and wait. After those are mastered, the dog must learn normal recall (returning anytime you call) and recall over obstacles. Also important is the “send away” command, making the dog go ahead you.

Tips for Dog Agility Training

• Begin training by getting your dog’s attention.

• Talk to him and offer a small treat. Coupled with the love he has for you, he’ll be all ears.

• Be sure you have the correct lead (generally 6 feet) and a comfortable collar (measure the dog’s neck and add 2 inches) for your dog.

• Give praise often.

• “Tune in” to your dog to be sure she and you are ready to train.

Teaching your puppy crate training is the first and best step in his life. It makes all the other steps in his training go so much smoother, much like a solid foundation makes for a superior wall.

Establishing you as the Alpha member of his “pack” is one very good reason for starting your puppy in a crate when he is very young.

Another reason for crate training is that dogs love predictability. To know what is going to happen in any given situation makes him happy, and more apt to be the best-behaved dog he can possibly be.

A strong crate is the very basis of good puppy training. A wire crate with a lock is the best kind. Make sure it is large enough for him to stand up and turn around. But not so large that he can roam and wander around.

A too-large crate will inhibit house breaking. A crate that is just the right size will be perceived as his “nest”, where puppies never “go potty”. They will learn to hold it if you don’t make a prison out of it.

Never leave a puppy under 8 weeks longer than one hour in his crate. He will soil it, after struggling and suffering as long as he can.

Put a nice pad in there with a bone. Start with placing a tasty treat in there, he will go in and get it. Do this several times without closing the door, let him come in and out freely for an hour or so. Praise him highly each time he goes in, make it all very pleasant.

Then when his attention is on his treat, close the door. Praise him quietly, “What a good boy, it’s ok, such a good boy!” In 10 or 20 seconds, no longer, let him out without a word, no praise, just a pat.

Do this for increasingly longer intervals, but do not give him a chance to get upset. You can do this several times the first day.

Make sure every training session ends on a happy note, this is crucial.

Once he sees the crate is his own private territory, he will go in there on his own, expecting treats and your attention. When he does, say, “Wanna crate?” with a happy face while getting his treats.

Start leaving the room while he is in there for 2 minutes and onward, gradually. When you return, don’t make a fuss, just walk over and open the crate. In 3 days he will be officially crate-trained, ready to be left alone for an hour, no longer at first. Leave him gradually longer, slowly and carefully.

Q. Why do I want a crate for my puppy?
A. Because they love it is the best reason. They feel very safe and secure in there. Here are some more:

When you leave a puppy alone, he always has some measure of separation anxiety. This leads him to any behavior that brings him comfort, which is chewing, digging, or when it is severe, voiding his bowels. When placed in a crate, he feels safe because nothing can get to him, nothing can harm him. He will sleep and chew and wait for you to return.

Crate training is the first step in being able to leave him overnight at the vet. Without it he will cry the entire time, feeling lost and abandoned. With crate training, he is sure you will return, you always do. Of course the vet’s office is strange and will cause him some anxiety, but nothing like the pure terror he will feel without experience in being locked in.

NOTE: About crate-training, do not make a prison of his crate. Do not use it as punishment. Do not leave him there for more than 2 hours, just time for a long puppy nap and some chew time. After that he will cry. Do not remove him while he is crying. This will make him think he has to cry to get out. No matter what, make sure he is being good when you open the door. He will learn he has to be quiet to get out.

Do not make a fuss when you are letting him out, just quietly open the door and take him out to potty. When he potties, praise him to high heaven! Dogs naturally do not go where they nest, but sometimes it happens. Do not scold, just clean it out with a bland face. He will learn the lesson. If possible, try to clean it while he is outside so he returns to a clean crate.

Crate Training is the fastest and most humane method of housebreaking dogs. Have you ever seen a dog under a table, chair or bed? The reason is that dogs naturally want to seek shelter, even in a house. If you don’t provide it, they will create it themselves in an effort to feel safe and secure. A crate serves as a den for your dog.

2) How does crate training work?

Like babies, puppies cannot control their bladders until they mature (usually between 3 and 6 months). Dogs have a natural instinct to avoid eliminating in their dens. Therefore, confining your puppy in his crate for the proper amount of time encourages him to “hold it” until you take him outside for a walk. Pet Dreams offers Free Crate Training Tips with more step-by-step details.

3) What about housebreaking older dogs?

It is never too late to crate train your dog! The number one reason dogs end up in shelters is behavior problems. Crate training, at any age, can help break bad habits and solve most of these problems.

4) How long do I need to use the crate?

Crates are not just for training- they are good for the lifetime of your dog. By providing a crate for your dog, you are in essence providing him with his own bedroom. Crates are especially important for older dogs that use it to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday family life, which often includes small children or other pets that may harass them.

5) How safe is crate training?

Dog crates are the best housetraining tool available. They provide a room for your dog while protecting your home furnishings from damage. However, even a crate isn’t an absolute safe harbor for your pet. As per crate manufacturers warnings, you should always remove standard collars before placing your dog in a crate. Otherwise, your dog is at risk for possible strangulation if his collar or ID tags become caught in the crate’s bars. Pet Dreams’ Cratewear bumpers are the only bumpers made high enough to help prevent collar strangulation and other crate-related injuries.

6) I was told that dogs like their crates, so why do I have to force mine inside?

Again, make sure the crate is in a good location. Veterinarians and trainers recommend covering the crate to give your dog the privacy he needs to feel secure. If your dog can see you, he’ll want to be with you outside the crate. Crate covers lower the number of distractions your dog sees, which reduces barking and stress. Note: Dogs that suffer from separation anxiety should not be crated. If you feel your dog is suffering from separation anxiety and is showing clinical signs, please avoid crating him until speaking to a professional.

9) What’s in it for me?

Dog crates give your dog a place he can claim as his territory. Providing your dog with a comfortable room of his own will help keep him off your furniture. In addition to the safety and comfort benefits for your dog, Cratewear will enhance your wire crate to fit your decor, making the crate an attractive addition to any room. All of this results in a more positive training experience for you and your pooch!

The conventional method of dog training tips and guide would be to list a series of things that you should “Do” and you might even know the A-Z of dog training! But sometimes what should be done can be said best by telling what should not be done. Hope you agree with me!

This article seeks to list 18 “Don’t” when you train your dog. The reasons for the don’ts will become evident as the lessons continue and each one is based upon the distinctive psychology of the dog’s mind.

1. DON’T punish your dog while you are angry or lack control of yourself.

2. DON’T punish your dog with the lead or any instrument of training or anything he should associate with duty or pleasure.

3. DON’T sneak up on your dog or grab him from the rear.

4. DON’T chase your dog to catch him; he must come to you or run after you.

5. DON’T coax your dog to you and then turn upon him with the whip. You will regret the deception.

6. DON’T trick or fool or taunt your dog. It is cruel and inconsistent to tease your dog to come to you when he can not.

7. DON’T punish a dog by stepping on his paws needlessly. They are exceedingly sensitive. Don’t twist his ears playfully or otherwise. Never strike him on the backbone, in the face or on the ears.

8. DON’T grab your dog or reach for him quickly. He should never fear his master, should not be made nervous by his master, and should feel that punishment given is deserved.

9. DON’T nag your dog; don’t be giving orders to him constantly; don’t pester him with your shoutings.

10. DON’T praise a dog for doing a certain act, then at a later time, scold him for doing the same act. If you permit him to bite your toes today and think it fun, do not strike him for doing it tomorrow, when you are not in good humor. Consistency is a chief virtue in dog training.

11. DON’T train your dog immediately or soon after he has eaten.

12. DON’T lose patience with a puppy younger than six months. Never throw or kick a puppy nor lift him by the head or leg or skin of the neck.

13. DON’T train him in feats requiring much strength or endurance until he is at least six months old.

14. DON’T work your dog without some short rest or play periods during training. A five-minute rest for every fifteen minutes of training is desirable.

15. DON’T permit everyone to give commands to your dog. While you are training him, he must be a one-man dog, depending on you alone to feed him and care for him.

16. DON’T consider tricks the chief end or the chief part of training. Usefulness is the object sought in all instruction of the dog. Acts that spring naturally from the dog’s instincts are to be fostered.

17. DON’T expect your dog to be a wonderful dog after a few weeks of training; four months to a year may be necessary in order to make the master proud of him, but the work is worth the effort. Training never ends.

18. DON’T jump to the conclusion that your dog is dumb. He may differ with you believing that the trainer should know more than the dog.