[Akeisha] Hi its Akeisha again. I do see what you mean if it is on all the time the dog will soon forget it is on and then will behave regardless. Ok, so the dog never wears a buckle collar again? This is what irks me. I want to be able to control the dog regardless of what collar is on not just the pinch or it could be no collar at all and the dog still behaves. What if the owner for some reason takes off the collar then they put the buckle collar on for ID but then forget the pinch collar? Then there is no control.

[Adam] WRONG! The dog gets conditioned. Take off the collar for awhile. Doesn’t matter.

[Akeisha] Do you ever in the training go back to the buckle collar after months of what you recommend with a dog that is happy with doing the commands?

[ Adam: ] Yes, the dog does the command because he is happy and he likes it. But eventually, there will be something that tempts him. This is where conditioning comes in.

Think of it like this: You’ve lived in the same house for 10 years, right? You get up in the middle of the night and you reach for the light switch that is to the LEFT of the door. Pretty soon, you get conditioned to reach out to the LEFT of the door.

One day you travel and stay in a hotel. You wake up in the middle of the night and reach out to the LEFT of the door for the switch… even though you cognitively saw that the switch is on the RIGHT.

In fact, you may wake up for several nights– perhaps even weeks or months– and still reach out to the LEFT, even though the switch is now on the right. Some people will continue reaching to the LEFT for the rest of their lives. Some will begin reaching to the right.

Those people need to be reinforced. Get it?

[Akeisha] Motivational corrections if on the right dog won’t frighten them or make them hate you I know but aren’t there other ways except using the collar that will eventually be established thought training that will allow you to take the collar off and have control?

[ Adam: ] Yeah, this way you can take the collar off and have control, ONCE THE DOG IS CONDITIONED. But eventually you’ll have to go back and reinforce, for most dogs. And definitely if you start expecting to work the dog around new distractions that it’s never been proofed around, such as chickens if the dog has never seen chickens.

Look, I don’t make the rules. The dog is not a robot that you can suddenly say, “He’s done” and expect him to act consistently for the rest of his life. Like any relationship you have with another person, boundaries need to be established and maintained. The dog is like your wife or husband… they will eventually test you.

[Akeisha] Last question, how can the dog not realize the don’t have it on since it feels a lot different than the buckle? Its like my id around my neck at school I have gotten used to it but I do realize when it is off? Just for the record I have no problem with pinches, many members in my 4-H club use them and they work great on the right dog.

[ Adam: ] Because the way you should be using the pinch collar is that the dog (since he has limited reason and logic) does not KNOW that it is the pinch collar that allows you to give him good corrections. But it’s more than the pinch collar. If I put the dog in a number of small yards, with no collar on … and I’m able to chase him down and make him come back to me, if he doesn’t come when I call… then the dog will learn THE UNDERLYING PREMISE that I can make him do it, if he doesn’t. So, the pinch collar and the long line make my job easier, but ultimately, the dog knows (or he thinks at least) that I am a man of my word and when I tell him to do something: If he doesn’t do it, I’m going to make him do it. And his life will be a lot more fun if he does it willingly. So the dog starts to extrapolate this principle to other commands, too.

[Akeisha] Hope I am not being irritating I just like to know why certain trainers value certain methods over others since I love competing in obedience with my dog.

[Adam:] Keep training. -Adam.

Do you want to be able to take your dog anywhere, and KNOW that he’ll listen to you… even if tempted by another dog, a cat, or even a piece of food??? Then check out: “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider’s Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History!” By Adam G. Katz, Owner of South Bay K-9 Academy. For more information, go to:

The training of sitting up is one of the first tricks to teach and forms the groundwork for many other dog tricks. To train a dog to sit up, prepare some treats as a reward, and set your dog on his haunches in a corner, so that he cannot fall either backward or sideways and has very little or no space to lose balance.

Keep him from pitching forward by holding one hand under his chin and with the other hand hold the treat above his nose and keep repeating distinctly and deliberately say, “sit up.” Do not make him sit up too long at any one time, but repeat the lesson frequently and reward him often with plentiful of praise and treats.

During his first lesson he will require considerable assistance from your hand to prevent him from pitching forward, but as he gets control of the balancing muscles and understands what you want, he will depend less and less upon your hand to keep him in position and you can gradually render him less assistance until you will only have to keep one hand in position two or three inches from his neck or chin, so as to be ready to prevent him pitching forward; later on you can withdraw this hand entirely and simply hold the treat just above the level of his head.

By constant practice he will sit up well after you set him up; then he should be set up against the wall, so as to afford him a support for his back only, and after he has been well schooled at this and can keep his position easily, practice him against chair legs, cushions or other objects that afford him less and less assistance, until finally he learns to preserve his balance and sits up without anything to lean against.

During all these lessons the words “sit up” have been impressed upon his mind by frequent repetition, and now comes the final lesson to teach him to sit up as soon as he hears the words, and the chances are, if he has been diligently drilled, it will be necessary only to call him out in the room, show him a treat, hold it up a suitable distance from the floor, say “sit up” and he will do so, when he should be given the treat while still in position.

The only necessity to perfection is to practice him several times a day until he will sit up at the word and without being shown a reward; that can be given him after he has obeyed.

You have now a foundation for many other tricks. He can be taught to beg by moving your hand up and down just in front of his paws, which he will move in unison with yours. He can also be taught to salute by bringing one paw up to the side of his head, or to hold a wooden pipe in his mouth, or to wear a cap on his head or other articles of wearing apparel.

In teaching a dog to submit to being dressed up, do not attempt to get him to wear too many things at once; try him at first with a cap and after he becomes accustomed to that you can put on a coat and gradually accustom him to the other clothing articles.

The woman who lives in the house next door to Tom just got a new Border Collie puppy. Tom immediately gave her a print-out of my dog training book (which you can read more about at:
http://www.dogproblems.com/secretsbook.htm )

She read the book. Especially the part about using a crate to confine your puppy when you’re not home. (This is the same way you’d confine a baby to a crib or a play pen when you can’t keep 100% of your attention on your baby). It prevents your puppy from learning bad habits, and it also gives your pup a sense on security and well-being, as it brings out their natural den instinct.

Now, I make it pretty clear in my book that the crates I recommend are the kind you can buy at any pet store. They are made of a plastic shell and have a locking wire mesh-gate door at the front, and wire windows on the side. (You can ask any pet store for the “airline approved” crates).

Anyway— Tom’s neighbor thought she’d get creative. Since it was only a 10 week-old puppy, she put the pup in a tupperwear box in front of her house during the day. (Yes, she left the top off, of course). But this was in lieu of buying the crate I recommended with the locking door… so that her pup would actually be confined.

The problem was that: The puppy wasn’t CONFINED.

It didn’t take a genius dog (or even a puppy) more than half a day to figure out how to jump out of the box.

Then it was off to puppy adventures…

The puppy learned how to chew plants.

The puppy learned how to urinate and defecate in unapproved areas.

And the puppy leanred how to run into the street and play with strange, stray dogs and other animals.

Fortunately—by the second day—Tom’s groundskeeper became aware of the pup, and started keeping the pup with him during the day. When the pup started to chew on plants, the groundskeeper would tell the pup, “NO!” and then take him away. When the puppy started to sniff around and look for a place to defecate, he’d take the pup to the APPROVED area.

And then praise the pup, after doing the desired behavior. (Hey—some people are just naturals!)

And when he couldn’t watch the pup, he locked the pup in the guard shack, which has a concrete floor, is shaded and well-ventilated. This functioned as a make-shift crate, because there was nothing in the guard shack that the dog could chew on, and no way to get out. (Also, the walls were concrete, so the pup didn’t have any floor molding or dry-wall to learn how to chew.

So, that evening—after talking with the groundskeeper– Tom had a talk with his neighbor and explained why it’s so important to follow the instructions in my book and not try to get “creative” with the process of raising her pup. (Like I said—some people get it naturally, and some people don’t.)

A dog which is slow in barking can be encouraged to do so by your imitating a bark, as the chances are he will reply to it, and if you reward him he will learn to bark as soon as he hears the word “speak.”

After a dog has been taught to bark once, you can teach him to bark any number of times, for when he has learned to expect a reward after barking once and you do not give it to him he is apt to bark again or until you give him a signal to stop.

Dogs are very observing and the signal to stop barking can be so slight that your friends will not detect it, such as a movement of the foot or hand, a dropping of the eyelids or a shifting of your gaze, and if you keep up a running fire of conversation and address your dog as if he were a human being his performance will be much more impressive and perplexing.

As an illustration, if you are exhibiting your dog to an audience and want him to speak, don’t simply say “speak,” but address him something like this: “Now, Buddy, all the ladies and gentlemen present are very anxious to hear you speak.” Put a slight emphasis on the word “speak” and your dog will catch it, but it will appear to the audience as if the dog understood the entire sentence and not only the one word “speak.” Of course, when training the young dog you should use only the word “speak” and that distinctly and free from other words, so as not to confuse him.

If your dog knows how to speck on command, you can try to teach “singing” – which is to teach him to howl on command. It is not expected that your dog will produce any melody but only repeat in a mechanical way a series of whines and barks.

Teach him to “sing” in the following manner. Try to imitate a whine yourself and try to get him to imitate the noise you make and to a certain degree, reach the pitch and style of noise make by you, be it a howl, whine or bark and with constant practice, a dog can and will learn to follow your tone quite accurately.

As your dog learn to follow your barking, say “sing” instinctively to associate this action. Praise and treat plentifully during training to encourage him further. Exercise him on a regular basis will help him to learn to sing in no time on your command.

A crate may look like a jail cell, but when used properly is your dog’s natural den – a personal space where he’ll feels secure and comfortable. The best place to place a crate would be where your dog can see the environment and family members, hear and smell your house – the kitchen is usually a good spot.

An ideal crate should be large enough to allow your dog to stretch out, stand without hitting his head and be able to turn around. The crate should not be so large that your dog can relieve himself in one corner and play move away to play and sleep in another. If your puppy is still young and is not fully growth, try to block off certain section of the crate with cardboards or wood boards.

To encourage your dog to “like” his new den, you should preferably equip it with soft beddings, a bowl of water and a toy that he likes. (You might want to remove the water at night when you are potty training your dog)

You must introduce the crate slowly to your dog. Crate him in smaller interval, about 10 minutes, and gradually increase over time. Your dog need time to get used to being crate. Never crate him for more than 30 minutes or longer for the first time.

It is not advisable to crate a young puppy for long period of time – about 2 hour and pup should always be exercised before being crated.

It’s quite normal for dogs to kick up a fuss, bark and moan while in the crate. If these things happen, do not give your dog any attention! Yes! Do not even look in his direction.

Dogs are intelligent animals – Don’t let him know that he’ll get your attention when he kicks up a fuss. Simply ignore him! Let your dog out only when he settles down.

*if it’s a young puppy whom you’ve just introduce the crate to, maybe you can offer him a treat in the crate to calm him down. Whatever you do, don’t let him out of the crate at that very moment!*

The exception I can think of is if you think your dog has to relieve himself. Even so, bring it out only after he stops barking. Another exception is when your dog is chewing on himself. Let him out immediately and consult a trainer or behaviorist.

Lastly, dog should not be crate for too long day after day. He’ll develop destructive behaviors and anxiety problems. If you notice that your dog displays hyper active behavior compare to before, you might be crating him for too long!

Let me guide you through the maze of Dog training collars. Let us take a look at each of the available collars we can have for our dogs.

First, there is the buckle collar. The buckle collar is really like a buckle that we use for our trousers. Buckle collars have buckle fasteners too to secure it over the dog’s neck. The buckle collars for dogs come in different varieties. There are buckle collars that are flat, rolled, made in nylon, or made in leather. The most preferred buckle collars of owners are the ones made in nylon. They are easier to clean, don’t shrink and they come in different colors and styles. The leather ones, although it has been popular, is not very easy to clean and if wrongly washed they may shrivel or shrink.

Another Dog Training Collar especially used for flyball training and sled dog racing is the Martingale collars. Martingale collars provide “limited choke” on the dog’s neck. These collars are not so easy to come off as they really fit the neck of your dog in a very nice way. Martingale collars are so flexible and they eliminate the danger of choking even if the dog gets very excited.

Next is the, Limited Choke Collar. These collars are more like the choke chain but they have rings at the end to make room for a few inches of allowance. To use these collars, you just have to ease the dog training collar from the head of your dog and slip it down its neck and tighten it a little.

An outdated Dog training collar is the choke chain. This was formerly used by dog owners before the invention of the other types of collars. Mostly, choke chains were used for punishment and correction. When a dog misbehaves, the owner would just jerk on the leash and the dog would choke, letting him think twice of what he is doing. Before, choke chains were really made of chains but now they are mostly made of nylon. Choke chains really are a torture to dogs, in some cases when the jerking is very hard, it can damage the windpipe of the dog.

An innovation of the choke chain dog training collar is the Snap-around choke. This is like the choke chain but designed so as not to damage a dog’s windpipe. The snap-around choke is very snugly fit and it is worn up high the dog’s neck and when the leash is jerked, it does not damage the dog’s windpipe and does not jolt the dog that much.

Most of the collars we have discussed are worn around the dog’s neck. However, there are also dog training collars that are worn on the head. These collars are fit on the dog’s head with a leash attached under the dog’s muzzle. The principle of this is that, where the dog’s head is, its body will follow. The dog may not adjust that easily to wearing these kinds of dog collars and they may look like a pony halter or a muzzle.

Next is the Pronged or the German Pinch dog training collar. This collar is especially made for dogs that are wild, unruly and difficult to control. These collars apply pressure on the protruding areas in the dog’s neck therefore it effectively catches the dog’s attention. This kind of dog training collar does not damage the dog’s windpipe

Another dog training collar is the electronic collar. These collars set off radio waves that shock the dog. The consequence of using this kind of collar is that your dog will always leave on fear and negative anticipation of the next shock. Electronic collars should not be used by novice trainers as they may not know how to properly make use of this collar.
There is also this thing called the no-bark collars. These are generally not really collars but they are used to train dogs not to bark. It is oftentimes very damaging and not beneficial on the dog to use this kind of collar.

There are still so many dog training collars available. They are constantly evolving to make collars as comfortable and as dog-friendly as possible. Other dog training collars include: light-up collars, they light up or glow at night; ornamental collars; schutzhund training collars and many others.

You should always use a positive approach to training your dog. Rewarding him with a treat and praise will go a lot further than hitting and yelling. Dogs and puppies want your approval and will try to please you to get your praise.

Once you have taught your dog the two basic commands of “sit” and “down”, you are ready to move on to the “stay” command. This command comes in handy when you are out somewhere and you don’t want your dog to get into something he shouldn’t or to keep him contained in a dangerous situation. The steps are basically the same as for any other training with the action and command being the differentiating factor. Here’s some steps you might use to train your dog to stay:

1. Get the puppy (or adult dog) to lay down or sit (You should already have them well trained in these commands before you can expect him to stay).

2. Give the “stay” command – some people put their hand up with the palm facing the dog in sort of a “Stop” command as well.

3. Give praise no matter how long he actually “stayed”. Of course, at first the dog won’t really stay at all, but you must give the praise anyway.

4. Release him by calling him to you and reward him with praise and a treat.

5. Praise the dog no matter how long he stays in position. At first he will only stay for a short time, but as he catches on you can lengthen that time period and eventually even leave the room and expect to find him as you left him.

6. Repeat the steps 5 times. No more than 5 times or it won’t be fun! You can try again later in the day.

With so many of a dog’s happiest moments spent running, jumping, catching, and stretching, dog agility training can really help dogs age gracefully and happily.

What is dog agility training?

You’ve probably seen dog agility training on television. The dogs run a course of tire hoops, tunnels, seesaw, dog walk plank, jumps, hurdles, weaving poles, and a 3-meter A-frame. Heeling, sitting, down stays, send-aways as well as walking off leash are also included.

Who can participate?

Anyone with a dog can do agility training. There is not age limit for people or dogs. In fact, children and puppies are encouraged to take part. All breeds and sizes of dogs without a physical disability can benefit from agility training. Be sure to check with your vet before you begin agility training if you have any doubts about your canine’s fitness.

What equipment is needed?

You as the handler will need comfortable shoes and clothes that you can run in, because this is not exercise for the dog alone.

Your dog needs a leather or webbed buckle collar and a leather, nylon or rope lead of fairly long length. Do not use a chain lead; it could get caught in the jumps.

Agility Training Courses for Dogs

There are two sides of agility training for dogs. They are the obstacles and the control training. There are also tips for training your dog.

1. Obstacles. Although it seems high to many handlers, the A-frame is the best obstacle to begin training. The dog walk plank, low jump and the tunnel (dogs love this obstacle) are also excellent for training the novice dog.

2. Control training is important to keep your dog disciplined both on the agility course and off. Everybody knows that a dog must heel and sit. You must also teach your dog to know and obey different commands: to go left and right, lay down, and wait. After those are mastered, the dog must learn normal recall (returning anytime you call) and recall over obstacles. Also important is the “send away” command, making the dog go ahead you.

Tips for Dog Agility Training

• Begin training by getting your dog’s attention.

• Talk to him and offer a small treat. Coupled with the love he has for you, he’ll be all ears.

• Be sure you have the correct lead (generally 6 feet) and a comfortable collar (measure the dog’s neck and add 2 inches) for your dog.

• Give praise often.

• “Tune in” to your dog to be sure she and you are ready to train.

The conventional method of dog training tips and guide would be to list a series of things that you should “Do” and you might even know the A-Z of dog training! But sometimes what should be done can be said best by telling what should not be done. Hope you agree with me!

This article seeks to list 18 “Don’t” when you train your dog. The reasons for the don’ts will become evident as the lessons continue and each one is based upon the distinctive psychology of the dog’s mind.

1. DON’T punish your dog while you are angry or lack control of yourself.

2. DON’T punish your dog with the lead or any instrument of training or anything he should associate with duty or pleasure.

3. DON’T sneak up on your dog or grab him from the rear.

4. DON’T chase your dog to catch him; he must come to you or run after you.

5. DON’T coax your dog to you and then turn upon him with the whip. You will regret the deception.

6. DON’T trick or fool or taunt your dog. It is cruel and inconsistent to tease your dog to come to you when he can not.

7. DON’T punish a dog by stepping on his paws needlessly. They are exceedingly sensitive. Don’t twist his ears playfully or otherwise. Never strike him on the backbone, in the face or on the ears.

8. DON’T grab your dog or reach for him quickly. He should never fear his master, should not be made nervous by his master, and should feel that punishment given is deserved.

9. DON’T nag your dog; don’t be giving orders to him constantly; don’t pester him with your shoutings.

10. DON’T praise a dog for doing a certain act, then at a later time, scold him for doing the same act. If you permit him to bite your toes today and think it fun, do not strike him for doing it tomorrow, when you are not in good humor. Consistency is a chief virtue in dog training.

11. DON’T train your dog immediately or soon after he has eaten.

12. DON’T lose patience with a puppy younger than six months. Never throw or kick a puppy nor lift him by the head or leg or skin of the neck.

13. DON’T train him in feats requiring much strength or endurance until he is at least six months old.

14. DON’T work your dog without some short rest or play periods during training. A five-minute rest for every fifteen minutes of training is desirable.

15. DON’T permit everyone to give commands to your dog. While you are training him, he must be a one-man dog, depending on you alone to feed him and care for him.

16. DON’T consider tricks the chief end or the chief part of training. Usefulness is the object sought in all instruction of the dog. Acts that spring naturally from the dog’s instincts are to be fostered.

17. DON’T expect your dog to be a wonderful dog after a few weeks of training; four months to a year may be necessary in order to make the master proud of him, but the work is worth the effort. Training never ends.

18. DON’T jump to the conclusion that your dog is dumb. He may differ with you believing that the trainer should know more than the dog.